SILK KNOWLEDGE

 Silk bsics     Tips for Recognizing Real Silk
  Properties of Real Silk Fiber      Silk History
  Different Types of Silk Origin      About Silk Scarves
  What Are the Silk Categories      Why Digital Textile Printing

Silk Basics


What is Silk?
Silk is an animal fiber containing amino acids produced by the silkworm.

Name

 Serein

Fibroin

Glycine

8.55

39.194

Alanine

3.10

27.51

Leucine

1.33

0.705

Isoleucine

0.65

0.926

Phenylalanine

0.41

1.188

Cysteine

0.43

0.244

Valine

3.09

2.896

Methionine

0.07

0.311

Tyrosine

4.92

13.227

Oroline

0.42

0.447

Threonone

8.40

1.142

Serine

30.31

11.79

Lysine

3.36

0.535

Arginine

4.63

0.945

Aspartate

17.50

2.402

Glutamic acid

5.69

1.883

Histidine

1.56

0.371

 

 

 

Table: The Amino Acid composition of silk protein (per 100 gram silk proilein)

Did you know?
An average of 2500-3000 cocoons are needed to make one yard (equals 0.9144 meter) of silk fabric
What is a silkworm?
There are two types of silkworms: wild and cultivated. The fibers from wild silkworms are brown while those of the cultivated ones are yellow. The color of the fiber depends on the type of leaves that the silkworm feeds on, usually mulberry leaves. The silkworm is a tiny, white, 1/4-inch long insect. It eats 30,000 times its weight during one stage of its life cycle.
            Mulberry Field

What is the life cycle of silkworm?  
The Silkworm has a two month life cycle. The stages are:
   (1) Egg
   (2) Worm
   (3) Chrysalis (cocoon) 
   (4) Moth

The worm will eat for 30 days, and at the end of this period, it will form a cocoon.  During this stage it will cover itself with filament for 3 days.  After that, it will sleep for 15-20 days.  Then the moth stage begins, and after 3 days the moths lay eggs and die, thus completing the life cycle.


         Life Cycle of Silkworm
 How is silk fiber made?

The cocoons are soaked in a basin with water at a temperature of 140F. The filament from several cocoons is grouped to form fibers and threaded through a hole; then twisted together with several fibers that have been threaded through other holes.

The natural silk gums are removed by boiling the silk in hot water. The silk will lose 20-30 percent of its original weight through this process. The fiber will than go to a reeling machine. 

               Reeling Machine

Did you know?
An average of 2500-3000 cocoons are needed to make one yard (equals 0.9144 meter) of silk fabric

Properties of Real Silk Fiber 


Pure silk contains no metallic chemicals.

  • Silk has the capacity to absorb moisture while remaining dry.
  • Silk has the ability to breathe and to absorb oil from the skin.  However,  it sheds dirt easily and readily, making it a very sanitary textile.
  • Silk has a greater natural affinity for printing media (Penetrability) than linen and cotton.  As a result, basic acids and direct dyestuffs can all be used on silk with better results than can be achieved on linen and cotton.

  • The silk fiber ranges in length from 1350-4000 ft
  • Silk is the finest natural fiber and has the greatest strength compared to other natural fibers of the same diameter
  • The elasticity of real silk is superior to that of linen or cotton

Silk can be stretched by 1/5—1/7 of its original length before breaking.  Because of this property, garments made of silk keep their shape and do not wrinkle badly.

     •  Garments made of silk are warmer than those made of linen and cotton because of the poor heat conductivity of silk. Silks hold the heat near the body keeping it warm.

Different Types of Silk Origin

Silk produced in different parts of the world have unique sheen and texture properties.
  • Chinese silk is smooth and satiny, and has a creamy white natural color
  • Japanese silk has a creamy white natural color
  • Italian silk is soft and rich in color, and has a yellow crinkly look

Silk Categories

The major categories of silk are: 

a)Satin
b)Crepe
c)Georgette
d)Knit

A Brief description of the popular Chinese silk categories used to manufacture our products is presented following:

(a) Silk Satin

Structure: All or most parts of the cloth have a satin woven structure (except for crepe satin, where both the length and width of the material is woven using strong twisted treads).
Features: Silk satin has a very tight and soft tissue structure, with a glossy face and a dull back.   

Specification:

Width / weight Density of longitude Density of latitude
115/114cm / 82g/m2 1295 threads/10cm 490threads/10cms

(b) Crepe

Structure: Manufacturing is accomplished by means of craft and structure, in which twisted threads are combined with a flat woven or crepe structure.
Features:  Silk crepe has a crinkled look and considerable elasticity, with a gentle gloss, smooth to the touch, and good resistance to wrinkling.

Heavy Crepe Specifications:

Width / weight Density of longitude Density of latitude
114 cm / 129g//m2 943 threads/10cm 550threads/10cm

(c) Georgette

Structure: Georgette silk is a subclass of Crepe category, but with a different texture.  Its length and width are woven from strong twisted threads.  Its name comes from the French. 
Features:  Georgette silk has a light and transparent tissue structure with a dull, crepe surface, and a very neat and delicate appearance.  It also has very good “breathability” and hangs well.

i) Light Georgette Specifications

Width / weight Density of longitude Density of latitude
115/114 cm / 44g/m2 517 threads/10cm 441 threads/10cm

ii) Heavy Georgette specifications

Width / weight Density of longitude Density of latitude
116/114 cm / 80g/m2 854 threads/10cm 575 threads/10cm

(d) Knit fabric

Structure: Unlike woven fabric, knitted fabric consists entirely of horizontal parallel courses of yarn. The courses are joined to each other by interlocking loops in which a short loop of one course of yarn is wrapped over the bight of another course.
Features: All knit fabrics have some stretch. They are very smooth and flexible, which is perfect for ling
erie

Tips for Recognizing Real Silk



A normal QUESTION for a shopper:
"Am I buying a real silk fiber or silk imitation e.g. polyester?".

A number of tips to be considered, including prices, weaving, lustering, printing, and burning test

(a) Price: Usually the silk price is higher than polyester

(b) Due to the advance technology for producing fabric, it is hard to differentiate by the naked eye and touching between real silk and its imitation. Also it is hard sometimes to determine weaving, printing and lustering. Therefore, special devices are used to test the fabric.

However for different silk origins, the weaving can be a measure to compare between real silk and its imitation. Since the silk fabric weaving is handmade of natural fiber and this clearly shows small flaws or joins in the thread along the warp and weft. On the other hand the polyester has a silky feeling and it is machine made fabric and has a perfect surface with no flaws or bungs

(c) Burning test

Here is one of the basic old method to differentiate between the real silk fiber and its imitation: take two threads of real silk and light them with a flame. It will leave a fine ash and smell like burned hair. When the flame is taken away, the burning will stop. On the other hand if you lit the imitation silk, it will drip and burn with black smoke. It will continue to burn after the flame is taken away


A brief summary about the origins of silk spread to the rest of world during the ancient ages.

Silk History

640 B.C.

The Chinese discovered the life cycle of the silk cocoon and have been keeping the monopoly of silk till now. Silk culture was sponsored by the emperor’s wife. It was prohibited to export live worm outside China.

1070 B.C.

A mummy was recovered with silk, which indicated trade at that time.

200 B.C.


Silk Road Map

Along the Silk Road the Chinese silk found its way to Asia and Japan. When the Romans came to Asia, they discovered the silk, but they knew nothing of itsorigin.

552 A.D.

During the By Byuzentine Empire the silk worms were smuggled to Asia Minor and Greece by monks who had been sent by Emperor Justinian. The sericulture started to speed up.

7th century

Arabs concurred Persians, and learned about the silk. They spread the silk to Africa, Sicily andSpain.

century

Andalusia was the centre of producing silk to Europe.

12 century

Marco Polo's journey to China and trade between the west and the east. Italy started a silk industry.

1450-1466

During the time of King Louis X1, Lyon became the warehouse for foreign silk and manufacturing.

1536

France gave Lyon the monopoly of silk import & trade.

1685

The French Huguenots fled France and contributes to the silk in industry in Germany, Italy and Great Britain.

18th Century

The silk industry progressed in Europe, China and Japan.

19th century

1872: after the Suez Canal opening, the imported raw silk from Japan becomes more competitive due to Japanese progress in reeling technique.

20th century European sericulture continued its slow decline in silk industry.
Second world war: the raw silk from Japan banning led to the decline of silk production in Europe and USA

After the end of the war and the improvement of reeling in Japan, it became again the biggest production of raw silk until 1970. Then China in 1970 recaptured its historic position as the world biggest producer and exporter of raw silk.

About Silk Scarves

                                                        History of Silk Scarves

For what is known, the scarf dates back at least as far as ancient Rome 1000BC where it was called sudarium (Latin term for "sweat cloth") and was used by Romans to wipe their necks and faces. But the first silk scarf was created in ancient China. Later the sudarium soon became a fashion accessory for both men and women, whether it was knotted to a belt or worn round the neck. Throughout the 17th and 19th century, French, Croatian, Chinese and Sweden people used scarves to designate nobility and social class as shawls, neckerchiefs and head wraps.

In the 19th century, the silk scarves became again a fashion accessory for men and a basic item in every man's wardrobe. The major supplier of silk scarves at that time was Sweden, mostly represented by merchants like K. A. Almgren and Casparsson & Schmidt, who supplied bands and ribbons as well as scarves in Norway, Finland and other countries. Around 1840, single or double-knotted fringes were extremely stylish and scarves were worn both as shawls and headwear.

Needless to say that the 20th century saw different types of scarves inspired by the old trends and combined with the new ones. Even though interesting in design, scarves seem to have been forgotten for a while. Well, now they are back and their future looks to be secure enough as they present huge opportunities in what "playing" with colors and patterns is available by digital textile printing technology, which makes artwork prints possible to be printed on fabric, thus fulfills the demands of the fashion designers and individual custom design.

                                                            Silk Scarves and Fashion

Silk scarves are the most versatile and eternally fashionable accessories for women. The variety of fabrics, shapes and sizes available in silk scarves make them an ideal accessory for all seasons, occasions and dresses. They can be used in a wide variety of ways to accent almost any fashion statement. Square, Rectangular and Oblong fashion scarves/shawls can add a dash of style to any outfit. There are countless ways to wear silk scarves depending on your desired look, but doubtless, the reflection of wearing silk scarves just highlight your style either in luxury or elegance.

Furthermore, silk scarves not only play warm function like other fabric scarves do, but also can be widely used throughout four seasons as fashion accessories due to its well-known physical features – excellent breathability, automatic temperature adjustment – warm in winter and cool in summer, and ultraviolet radiation resistant, etc. For example, it is not surprising if you are stylish by a delicate silk scarf in summer season.

A scarf can be worn in many different ways: as shawls, head coverings, accent pieces, belts or even as a garment. Tie them or pin them with a piece of jewelry, do whatever you want in order to obtain the desired effect, may it be to add flair or to give a subtle accent to a certain style. Once you get your scarf you will realize that you can enhance any outfit or further compliment your entire attire. Owning these delicate pieces of accessories is no longer a luxury; they are a necessity that every woman's wardrobe must have.

Headwear: One of the traditional ways of using a silk scarf is that of covering one's head, whether to protect from the cold, rain or as a sign of propriety. But back to fashion for that is what actually interests us. In the matter of fashion, silk scarves keep their initial purposes (to protect the head/ hairdo) but they are made to also look good in the process. Another use of a headwear can be seen in the case of women who are cancer patients and suffer from a loss of hair caused by the chemotherapy or radiotherapy treatments.

Garments: The versatility of scarves allows their use as garments as well. Be inventive and play with your imagination, wear scarves as tops, as blouses or even as skirts.

Accessories: No matter of the style of your outfit, a scarf can be a splendid accessory. Want to add a splash of color to a plain or severe-looking garment? Wear a scarf that gives life to the otherwise "dead" outfit (fashionably speaking). Want to give a boring suit the femininity and softness it lacks? Nothing easier, again, use a scarf! You would be surprised to see the variety of ways in which you can wear a scarf and improve any outfit. Endless possibilities I tell you!

                                                             Caring for Silk Scarves

A silk scarf is a beautiful and elegant accessory for any wardrobe. The most common method to cleaning silk is dry cleaning. However the costs can be prohibitive and the color of the fabric will also fade after time. To save on those expensive dry cleaning bills and preserve the original color and beauty of your silk scarf there are other possibilities for washing your scarves by hand but only if done carefully.

Silk is protein fiber, more similar to wool than to cotton. It is very similar to human hair. Remembering this will help when you think about how to wash or clean it.

Step 1 - Test the dishwashing detergent you have chosen to use on a small portion of the silk scarf to determine the colorfastness of the scarf. Most scarf stains are from grease (skin and make-up) and as a mild detergent specifically made to clean grease, any dishwashing detergent is an effective choice for cleaning silk scarves. If the color of the silk changes in any way, consider using a small amount of delicate fabric soap like Woolite or hair shampoo.

Step 2 - Soak the scarf in mixture of 1 qt. of lukewarm water, 1 tbsp. of table salt and a 1 cap full of dishwashing detergent for two minutes. The table salt will help prevent the colors from bleeding.

Step 3 - Squeeze out the excess water and rinse the scarf with cold water until the soap is washed out.

Step 4 - Add 1/2 cup of white vinegar to a sink full of water and rinse the scarf again with cold water. The vinegar will help brighten the color and shine of the silk.

Step 5 - Roll the scarf in a dry, clean towel and softly squeeze it to remove excess water. do not twist.

Step 6 - Unroll the scarf and lay it flat on another towel to completely dry or Iron dry with steam on a low setting. . You may lay a towel on top to prevent scorching. Always iron the silk scarf on its dull color side. Do not dry under direct sunlight.

Step 7 - Gently fold scarves and store them in linen boxes or breathable containers. Line the box with acid-free tissue paper for long-term storage. You may also store designer scarves in their original boxes.

                                                                  Ways to Tie a Scarf

It is possible to wear the same scarf or stole differently for different outfits and occasions. However, adding a Quality Silk Print Scarf onto the plain outfit is always a smart way to outstand yourself from others. It can be tied in multiple fashions depending on the outfit, weather and occasion – either in leisure or in elegance. Given below are just a few ways a scarf can transform a simple look into something special.

- French Twist – This is a perfect style for filling in the neck of a suit, sweater or jacket.

Tying instructions - Fold the scarf lengthwise, center the scarf in front of your neck. wrap around, crossing ends behind neck and pull forward.Tie a single knot centered underneath chin. Twist scarf to one side of neck so that the knot is off-center. Finish by tying a double knot and let ends hang loosely.

- Slip Knot/ Men’s Tie style –This style gels with almost everything, especially with a collared shirt or a crewneck.

Tying instructions - Fold the scarf twice lengthwise to create an "S" fold. Drape the folded scarf around your neck with one end of the scarf slightly longer than the other. Wrap the longer end around the shorter one and tie a loose knot. Pull the unknotted end of the scarf to adjust the length.

- Ascot Wrap – An ascot is ideal with formal collared shirts, blouses paired with skirt or pants

Tying instructions - Pull the scarf around the back of the neck as you would a tie with left end slightly longer than the right. Flip the left end over the right and push the left end up, through the neck loop, so that it emerges over the top. Center and spread the sides the top flap. Undo the top button of your shirt and tuck the ends of the ascot into the mouth of your shirt.

- Hacking Knot / Bow- A hacking bow looks wonderful on suits, jackets, sweaters and T-shirts

Tying instructions - Fold a scarf in half by length. Place around the neck and pull the two ends through the center-fold. Center Knot under chin, loosely For another look tighten the scarf to the side of the neck. Form a bow 

- Faux Bow – A faux bow looks good with an open neckline or a collared dress shirt

Tying instructions - Make a loose knot in the center of an oblong scarf. Place knot under chin and cross ends behind the neck. Bring them back to the front. Place the ends into the knot going in opposite directions and tighten slightly.

- Classic Shoulder or Neck Drape - Suitable for formal eveningwear

Tying instructions - Fold scarf or stole into half lengthwise. Just drape the scarf over your neck or shoulders with both ends in the front. Hold it in place gently. The styles mentioned above are just a few of the endless possibilities that this small piece of fabric called the Scarf presents. The only thing required is a little creativity and style.

 

 Why Digital Textile Printing


  • Due to introducing advanced technologies and a totally different process to work on the digital printing; one of the biggest advantages is less minimum order requirement  needed as compared with the traditional order, which meets the demand for the individual fashion and unique design concept or any customized requirement.
  • Digital printing shortens production cycle of 10 days less than traditional printing, if it is customized design and small number orders.
  • No industrial pollutions due to using ink instead of chemical materials and water spill in manufacturing of the traditional printing 
  • Digital printing will not alter the natural features of silk fabric, but it will make the print copy exactly the same as the original artistic oil printing. Therefore, you can enjoy vivid and true reflection from the original printing.
  • Digital printed textile gives the highest flexibility in view of designs, minimum order and delivering time.
Traditional-printing uses limited colors, for instance, 8 colors, 12 colors, maximum 18 colors, to manufacture. However, there are no limitation in use of colors and designs for digital printing.







Silkmelody offers three types of products and services with high quality and competitive price: silk cloth and silk accessories; silk wholesale, digital textile printing. For example, silk products include silk scarves, silk satin scarves, silk print scarves, silk oil paint scarves, silk formal dresses, evening dresses, special occasion dresses, and semi-formal dresses. In the view of quality, low cost and fast delivery, our digital fabric printing service is your one stop to shop with Custom Design available.